Avocado oil
is obtained from the pulp of the
avocado and is highly therapeutic.
It contains protein, amino acids,
and vitamins A, D, and E. These
components are moisturizing and
healing, allowing cell regeneration
and
softening of body tissues. Avocado
oil is used in
our shampoo bars, as it helps
heal scaly skin and scalp.
Castor oil
is a highly moisturizing oil. It's
high percentage of ricinoleic acid
makes it quite viscous and acts as a
humectant, attracting and retaining
moisture to the skin. It is used in
our shampoo bars, where it gives a
hard,
moisturizing characteristic to the
bars.
Coconut oil
is one of the main soap-making oils.
It is made from dried coconut meat.
It is solid at room
temperature and is moisturizing, but
is best used in conjunction with
other oils. A percentage of coconut
oil in
cosmetics is moisturizing, but too
much of it can be drying. It makes a
creamy lather, which will even
lather in
salt water. Refined coconut oil is
closest substance to human sub-cutaneous
fat and more compatible with skin
than vegetable oils. It has a
virtually unlimited shelf life,
since it can not turn rancid, and it
can not clog pores,
making it an ideal carrier for oily
or troubled skin.
Cocoa butter
is obtained from the same bean as
chocolate or cocoa. Cocoa butter
lays down a protective layer that
holds moisture to the skin. It
contains about 5 IU of vitamin E per
ounce. Cocoa Butter softens and
lubricates the skin. If it smells
like chocolate to you that is
because it is the by-product from
the manufacturing
of cocoa and chocolate.
Hazelnut oil
is a wonderful moisturizer in creams
and soaps. It is absorbed easily by
the skin. It is rich in proteins and
essential fatty acids. We use it in
our Coconut
shampoo bars.
Jojoba oil
is a liquid wax which offers the
traits of both to make it a great
ingredients in soaps, creams, and
massage oils. It is highly
penetrating and closely resembles
our sebum. It is used in
our shampoo
bars and is an excellent
anti-oxidant.
Meadowfoam Seed oil
is derived from the seeds of
Limnanthes alba. It is used in
shampoos and soaps where it helps
add shine and moisture to hair and
scalp made dry and brittle by the
harsh process of daily washing. Our
Rose and Sweet
Orange shampoos contain this
oil.
Neem oil
is used to treat a variety of skin
disorders. The oil has antiseptic
properties and is used to treat
dandruff, oily skin, infections. It
also contributes hardness and
conditioning properties to soap. Our
Teatree
shampoo contains neem oil. It is
also effective as a mosquito
repellent.
Olive oil
is a very good moisturizer because
it attracts external moisture, holds
the moisture close to the skin,
and forms a breathable film to
prevent loss of internal moisture.
Olive oil does not block the natural
functions
of the skin while performing its
own. Pure olive oil soaps, called
Castile, are very mild soaps with a
slow lather.
Palm oil
is obtained
from the fruit or seed of the palm
tree. A rich source of Vitamin A.
Palm 106 is a refined,
food grade oil. Although it has
little contribution to skin care and
would not make a nice bar of soap by
itself, it
makes a nice hard bar when used in
combination with other oils such as
coconut and olive oil. It is less
water-soluble and resists "melting"
as do many softer soaps. It
saponifies easily and pulls other
oils into
saponification quicker.
Soybean oil
is the primary ingredient in
vegetable shortening (Crisco). It
contains high percentages of
linoleic and oleic acids, yielding a
soft soap. Used in conjunction with
coconut and olive oils, it makes a
wonderful contribution to a solid
bar of soap.
Shea butter
is solid and comes from the natural
fat obtained from the karite tree.
It is often referred to as
karite butter. Shea butter is an
emollient. It is extremely
therapeutic, helping to heal
cracked, aged and
damaged skin. Its chemical
constituents help to heal bruising
and soreness. Shea butter contains
vitamins our
skin needs to stay healthy. It
softens the skin, has a superior
moisturizing effect on the skin and
reduces scars.
Carrier
Oils
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Evening Primrose oil
contains a high content of linoleic
acid, vitamins and minerals. The
body doesn't produce this essential
fatty acid (also known as Vitamin
F), so we must be sure to include
this nutrient in our diets and skin
care products. Evening primrose oil
is easily absorbed by the skin,
encouraging transport of this fatty
acid.
Essential fatty acids inhibit
bacterial growth and encourage the
production of antibodies, enabling
our systems to defend against
infection and inflammation. They
also combine with protein and
cholesterol to build membranes which
link cells to one another. Water
loss, resulting in dry skin, is
thought to be related in part to low
levels of essential fatty acids.
Apricot kernel oil
is a pale yellow oil derived from
the kernel of apricots, as its name
implies. minerals and
vitamins, esp. Vit. A. It is a good
source of minerals vitamins and is
especially useful for prematurely
aged skin, sensitive or inflamed or
dry skin.
Sweet almond oil is
also derived from the almond kernel.
It contains minerals, vitamins A,
B1, B2, B6 and E, glucosides, and is
very rich in protein. Helpful to all
skin types. Especially good for
eczema. helps relieve itching,
soreness, dryness and inflammation
Useful against burns and thread
veins. Very lubricating, but not
penetrating, which makes it a good
massage oil, and protectant. It
helps relieve itching, soreness,
dryness, and inflammation. We find
this oil adds a particular richness
to our Saving Face soap.
Beeswax is obtained
from the honeycomb of honeybees. It
is used in soap formulas for the
hardness it contributes
to the final bars. The smell of
honey is a bonus.
Essential Oils
Essential oils are highly volatile
plant essences, produced primarily
by steam distillation (sometimes by
cold pressing or by CO2 extraction
or solvent extraction.) They contain
the aromatic molecules of the plant.
The plant produces them for various
reasons...reproductive (to lure bees
for pollinization, for example),
protection (the antifungal
properties of the leaves of the
melaleuca trees give us Tea Tree
oil, among others) etc.
Unlike fixed oils (the vegetable
oils) they are highly concentrated
and must be diluted in a carrier...
they should never be used undiluted
(or "neat") on the skin.
They work on the oldest part of the
brain (the limbic system) and have
intense effects on the
parasympathetic
nervous system, as well as powerful
antibacterial effects.
One of our great pleasures in
soapmaking is experimenting with
combinations of essential oils to
produce a scent that is pleasant and
exciting. Unlike fragrance oils,
essential oils are very powerful and
can be quite expensive. The quality
of essential oils is reflected in
the high quality of soaps it
produces.
We list the use of all essential
oils in our product line.
Do the Aromatherapy effects
of Essential oils survive
saponification? That
research has not been done, but
chemically, many of them probably
do. The main action of essential
oils is olfactory...by inhalation.
When we inhale
them, they cross the bloodbrain
barrier through the lungs, react
with the olfactory receptors in the
back of the nose
and cause reactions in the limbic
system, affecting the
parasympathetic nervous system, the
emotions, heartrate, breathing depth
and speed.
Addendum. I do
believe the EMOTIONAL effects of the
oils will come thru in soap...if you
can smell them, they will act on the
emotions...thus a citrus or
peppermint WILL wake you up...
lavender or roman chamo or the other
'relaxing' oils will help you sleep
well.
We have had many of our clients
claim that teatree soap has cleared
up rashes and skin problems.
You will have to decide for yourself
if the oils have a beneficial effect
on you. Just know that our intent is
to
produce the purest, most natural
soap product that we can make.
Bibliography
1. Bremness, Lesley, Herbs,
Eyewitness Handbooks, 1994, DK
Publishing, Inc.
2. Cavitch, Susan Miller, The
Soapmaker's Companion, 1997, Storey
Publishing.
3. Maine, Sandy, The Soap Book:
simple herbal recipes, 1995m
Interweave Press, Inc.
4. Worwood, Valerie Ann, The
Complete Book of Essential Oils &
Aromatherapy, 1991, New World
Library.
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